After grabbing a boxed lunch from the foyer of the hotel (which everybody threw away), we boarded the bus, and headed off to the airport. The security check at the airport made me pull out my perfectly legal screwdriver from the bottom of my checked baggage before I could get into the terminal, but at the second security check after getting our boarding passes they missed all kinds of things. Looked like they were going to confiscate the screwdriver, as the girl didn’t know what it was! However Valentina spoke to her severely and I finally put it back in my suitcase.
Farewelled Valentina and slipped her the required tip, before boarding our Tezjet Boeing MD83, a plane I hadn’t seen before. Must be a second hand one originally from South America as all the decals were in Spanish. Strange how it looked so out of place after days of Cyrillic.
85% of Kyrgyzstan is mountainous, and I don’t mean just hilly. The only two cities on flat land are Bishkek and Osh, and today we flew from one to the other.
A fairly short flight. No service, and they didn’t even turn off the seat belt signs. 10 flight attendants checked the aisles before takeoff but not one noticed the handbag at our feet. On board was the country’s champion volleyball team traveling home in uniform with their giant trophies, and they received a heroes welcome when they exited the terminal. Photos were still happening when we emerged.
Our new guide, Talbek, was waiting for us and ushered us on to two buses. Luxury!
First up was a stop at a typical authentic bread making shop who turn out 2000 small round loaves every day. Each one is hand made, imprinted in the centre with the unique mark of the baker, and cooked in a Tandoor oven.
Each culture has its own hand signals. Here in Osh the guide stepped out into the road and raised his thumb to the traffic when we wanted to cross. Obviously the cars understood that they needed to stop, but we thought it was the signal to drivers that there was premium roadkill up ahead.
Finally we got to the famous Brio coffee shop for breakfast. Scungy on the outside, but genuine European quality coffee, cake and muffins inside. Talbek must want a tip.
Off to Solomon Too mountain where we visited the UNESCO heritage cave museum, then climbed to the top of hill 3 then hill 1 for a wonderful 360 degree view of the smog.
Off to a closed restaurant for lunch. Oops. Plan B.
After a cultural lunch (one you choose by pointing to pictures that you have no idea about), it was off to watch a craftsman make knives – everything from a kitchen paring knife to a Crocodile Dundee one. He’s been doing it continuously for over 50 years, so I guess he knows what he’s doing by now, only using rudimentary instruments and a small coal fire.
Our last stop for the day was to a local yard where they make Tandoor ovens from local clay and sheep’s wool. Any size you want, from little domestic ones through to two metre monoliths. Did you know that there are two types of tandoor ovens? There are ones you bury in the ground, and ones that you build into a wall. The things I teach you.
Finally we were shuttled to our hotel, where we were generously given 90 minutes to freshen up, before heading off again for a cooking demonstration and dinner at a local resident’s house. Turned out to be our bus driver.
Dinner was pilaf – cooked in the traditional way in a large wok outside over a wood fire. We received a demonstration as the lady of the house explained how to make it. Unfortunately it takes over an hour and a half to cook, so we weren’t served till after 8, and we were getting a bit cold and hungry. Meant a late night before our biggest day yet.
Osh Nuru Hotel, Osh
That museum cave looks amazing! Next time I start grumbling about repetitive things in my life I’ll have to remember those hundreds of bread rolls and knives … oh my word I think I’d go crazy. Yes – I am very thankful for the things you’re enlightening me with!