Seems to be a common answer to get around here. ‘It depends on who you ask.’ There are so many conflicting thoughts, perspectives and experiences, muddied by changing allegiances, and lots of it has occurred within the lifetime of people around you, so that you get a different answer every time you ask a question.
Take, for example, an explanation from our Croatian guide, who was explaining three murals painted on the city wall. Famous Croatians we were told. The most famous – Nikola Tesla ‘who discovered electricity’. OK, so let’s agree that he developed a practical way to transmit and harness Alternating Current electricity, and changed the world. One smart dude, who had to overcome Edison and his rich backers like JP Morgan in the process. The greatest Croatian inventor.
One girl, who had already been told that there were no silly questions, timidly put her hand up, and said “But I thought Tesla was Serbian.” The guide’s answer? “It depends on who you ask”, and then moved on.
Well, I did what every seeker of the truth does in similar circumstances – I googled it. Wikipedia tells me that, technically, Tesla was neither. He was born in the days when neither Serbia nor Croatia existed. The power de-jour was the Austro-Hungarian empire, so technically he was an Austrian who lived most of his life in the US. However, when Tito came to power, Tesla had been born in a town that was now in Yugoslavia, so Tito claimed him and Serbia, who sees themselves as the real Yugoslavia, still do. Built him a museum. But the borders have changed again, and his village today is in rural Croatia. So, was Tesla a Croatian? It depends on who you ask, and that’s the best explanation you’ll get.
Similar story if you ask anything about the Yugoslav Civil War (aka the Croatian Homeland War, or a number of other names besides). The answer you get will depend on who you ask, how many family members were killed, and which side they were on; and it’s only 20 years ago so that nobody looks at it with any detachment anyway. There are Serbian, Croatian, Bosnian and Montenegrin perspectives, but then there are Bosnian Serbs, and Serbian Croats, and all other colours of the rainbow.
The President of Yugoslavia was Milosevic, a Serb, and he controlled the country’s military, so the Yugoslav Air Force bombing the Croatian palace could either be seen as a legitimate action by the country’s forces to put down an attempted military coup, or an attempt to invade a country and kill the elected head of state. It depends on who you ask.
Having pondered that all night, we decided to do what all visitors should do – get up early and go to the local market. Smelling the fish gives you a completely different perspective. An amazing variety of fruits, vegetables, beef, pork, chicken, fish, pasta, bakery items, cheeses, flowers and much more of course. Europe may be suffering from a chronic bee shortage, but we know where they are. Thousands of them flying around the Zagreb market. They weren’t that keen on the meat, ignored the fish completely, and gave a cursory glance to the flowers, but the poor young girl who had one of the dried fruit stalls could hardly be seen for the swarm.
Strangely, the city has very few places to get take away coffee. “No, no”, we were told. You have to sit down at a table with a white tablecloth and be served by waiters who bill you automatically for the 20% tip. Good old Maccas to the rescue. Not only could we get take away, we got a chocolate covered almond, wifi, and most importantly the keycode to the toilet door.
Caught the lunchtime train to Ljubljana, the capital of another ex-Yugoslav province, Slovenia. Comfortable 1st class seats this time, and even though there was no A/C, it was worth it for the clean toilets, though the upholstery was left over purple from the Malaysian Bus Service.
Slovenia, who has a large border with Austria, has positioned themselves strongly with Western Europe. Part of the EU, Schengen agreement, use the Euro, the whole 9 yards. Slovenia is very hilly, and very picturesque. Definitely a different topography to the rest of the Yugoslav states.
Unfortunately, it happened again. Just as we pulled into the station, the heavens opened up. A coolness descended which was lovely, except that we had agreed a time to meet our hosts for check in, so off we trudged in the rain. I know that hosts feel that it’s a personal touch to meet each guest and give them the keys, but it always means that one party is waiting, and the other party is under time pressure. It’s much better to have the keys in a lockbox, or use a keycode. Anyway we made it on time, and hung around in a doorway until Robert arrived and let us in.
Two big supermarkets nearby – one of them an Aldi. Prices on staples are cheaper than home, but other items are about the same.
Up until now, it’s been one long non-stop Eurovision song contest. Every song heard in shops and on buses has been a Eurovision anthem. We keep imagining Conchita warming up off stage. But no more. We are definitely back in Europe proper. So what defines Europe proper?
- a Chinese restaurant playing ‘Memories’
- dog bakeries
- Electric cars
- A city tax on all accommodation
- Self serve checkouts at the supermarket (‘Please take your items. C’mon I’ve asked you before ….’)
Had a lovely Chinese meal at the nearby restaurant. No pizza all day! Felt restored. Caught the last few minutes of ‘Babe’ in English on Slovenian TV.
Fish Market
Buying Pasta
Market Outside
Market Under Cover
Our Apartment
That’s How You Beat No Parking
Zagreb Academy of Arts and Sciences
Purple 1st Class
Slovenia Apartment
Like the decor?