Alms

Up well before sunrise to catch the monks as they did their morning alms walk. Hundreds of plastic stools were put out by vendors along a roped off footpath. The idea was that they ‘owned’ a small patch of the route, provided the stools and scarves to the tourists, and then sold the offerings to those utilising their stools for them to give as offerings.

Around 200 monks filed past around 6:30 to get their daily supplies. Unfortunately there were plenty of Chinese tour groups who had no idea what a request for silence meant, or what a rope barrier was for, but the monks went through the motions for them looking suitably bored.

I followed the procession past the end of the barriers and the hoards of tourists as the monks filed back to their temple, and that’s where I came across the real local worshipers dotted down the far footpath, suitably reverent as they gave their alms. Mind you I might have also seen many of the monks disposing of their rice as they got back to their temple. Maybe the temple coffee shop was open by now.

After a lovely breakfast in the garden of the guesthouse, we booked a day tour of the countryside for tomorrow, and headed off on a self-guided walking tour of the town.

So, I know you’ve been hanging out for the potted history of Laos…..

In 1707, the indigenous inhabitants split into three kingdoms: Luang Prabang, Vientiane and Champasak (which are largely still the three main districts of the country today). In 1893, these kingdoms were unified under French protection as part of French Indochina (largely to counter the huge Dutch trading influence in the area). Laos was under Japanese administration during WWII, gaining independence in 1945 before returning to French administration until achieving autonomy in 1949. The country regained full independence in 1953 as the Kingdom of Laos, with a constitutional monarchy under Sisavang Vong, but a civil war from 1959 to 1975 (whilst the Vietnam War raged) saw the communist Pathet Lao, supported by North Vietnam and the Soviet Union, oppose the Royal Lao Armed Forces, backed by the United States. The war ended with the withdrawal of the US, and the establishment of the Lao People’s Democratic Republic in 1975, a one-party socialist state aligned with the then Soviet Union. Since then, Laos has transitioned toward market-oriented reforms, marking a new phase of development.

For much of the French period, the capital of the country was Luang Prabang, and the palace is just across the road. Oh, and the last king had 10 wives (including 2 half sisters and 3 nieces) and 50 children, 14 of whom died in a boating accident on the Mekong River.

In the 200 years prior to French rule, there were many, many kings, and each wanted to build a large Wat (temple) to be remembered by. It feels like we visited most of them this morning – each one billed as unique, rich in culture and with a unique architecture style. Also got to see that wonderful piece of history – the Royal Volkswagen.

Back to the night market for a wander in the balmy evening, and some more scrummy local food.