Greg and Mandy's Travels

A bit of a ragged start to the day. One of our number was sick, and Valentina was simultaneously trying to assist her and herd cats at the same time.

After breakfast we headed down to the Russian Orthodox Church where the lady attendant couldn’t believe her eyes when a group of Australians rocked up. She scampered off to get her phone and show us some pictures of Australian flowers that she had been sent by a friend in Australia this morning. She was most impressed. “You people grow your own flowers while we have to buy them” came the translation. “Do you live near the sea?” she asked in awe. Didn’t have the heart to tell her that 98% of the country lives near the sea. She proudly showed us the very old icon that had been hidden under a rose bush during the Soviet period where the church was stripped, and re-presented when the Union collapsed.

On to the local market, but as it was only about 10am there were almost no stalls open, and Valentina hadn’t taken us to get any local currency to spend anyway.

Then to a shop that sold goods made by various communities around the lake, but the explanation was really disjointed as most people were wandering around trying to change money.

Eventually she herded us around the corner to the supermarket to trawl for lunch goodies, and then it was off to the local Dungan mosque. Kind of interesting as it was built by muslim Urghurs in a unique style appropriate to their culture, but it was very run down and dilapidated, and they didn’t allow you inside anyway. Certainly a contrast to the welcome in the church.

With all of the local sights dealt with, we headed off to find Jeti-Oguz Canyon some 20km down the track. Had a lovely walk about 2km up the road through the canyon to a spot in the sun where we enjoyed our lucky-dip lunch (you try reading 6 point Kyrgyz writing on food labels). Turned out to be some kind of a vegetable pastie, which did the trick nicely.

The only vaguely interesting tidbit of the day is that Yuri Gagarin used to take his summer holidays in the canyon, and the locals are immensely proud of it. There – I told you it was only vaguely interesting. 

Long stint driving down the road until we finally came to Issyk-Kul lake. A very big expanse of water some 180x60km, and we are told its the world’s second highest lake.

After a hundred km of badly potted road we suddenly came across roadworks, and not some piddly little ones. Smack bang in the middle of nowhere, on the shores of the lake, they are building a 4 lane divided highway of around 200km. Couldn’t believe it. The number of trucks and machinery is mind boggling. Think of every km between Melbourne and Bendigo being dug up all at once!

Finally arrived at our Yurt camp around 5pm. Yurts are the traditional homes of the semi nomadic shepherds and tribesmen, and are easily dis-assembled and taken with them whenever they move their horses or cattle. Made from an expanding lattice structure of wood, then clad in layers of skins and felt to keep everybody warm, with the usual hole in the centre to let the smoke out. Traditionally they cook, eat and sleep in the one yurt, but we have separate ones for eating.

Were given a demonstration of ‘bread making’ which was more like donut making, as they make their dough, cut it into small pieces, then deep fry it.

Dinner in the communal yurt of a local variety of fried rice and salad. Sitting cross legged on the floor is not the prefered style for most of us these days, but we coped. While we were eating they lit the stove/heaters in our yurts, and we fell asleep on the matresses in the yurt a bit too warm.

Almaluu Yurt Camp, Bokonbaev