The coastline around Dubrovnik is rather steep and rocky, and overlooking the old town is a hill, which they optimistically call a low mountain, by the name of Srđ. I’ve no idea how to pronounce it, but it’s 412 metres high, and it’s top is adorned with Fort Imperijal, built from 1806 to 1816, during the Napoleonic Wars.
Srđ was once forested with oak trees which locals called dubrava (from the old Slavic word dub, “oak tree”), after which the city of Dubrovnik was named. The southern slope was once rich with pine forests, but in the second half of the 20th century and during the 1991–95 Croatian War of Independence, the forest was almost completely gutted through numerous fires. So today it’s rocky and craggy, and rather lacking in any shade. Just ideal for walking!
The mountain was home to one of the fiercest battles of the Independence War, namely the Siege of Dubrovnik. The television mast was destroyed by fighter aircraft from the Yugoslav (Serbian) Air Force, and the cable car that took people to the top was also disabled during this time. Both have since been reopened.
A stony, unmade zigzag track leads up from the town – well actually one of the roads well above the town – so deciding to eschew the cable car (not on principal, just on price – $40 for 4 minutes), we took the number 3 bus on it’s circuitous route around the city, hopped off at the base of the track, and started panting.
Eighteen switchbacks later we got to the lookout at the top. The view is really stunning and most people, some time after their heartbeat returns to normal, would agree it’s worth the effort.
After a suitable time of admiring the views and getting some photos while dodging the crowds disgorging from the cable car every few minutes, we decided that Mandy’s knees probably wouldn’t survive the walk back, and bought two tickets down.
Back on the number 3 bus, all around the town, eventually arriving at our apartment for a late lunch, and a time of recovery – well, a full blown afternoon sleep really.
Made use of the fact that we have an oven in this apartment, and bought some fish and fries to cook for tea. It’s interesting what various countries have on their menues. We’ve reflected several times that we have never seen a variety in the food served in this part of the world that rivals Australia. There are almost no Asian restaurants or Asian dishes on menues which provides Aus with such a huge variety. Through all of the countries in this region, it’s pretty much the local meat dishes with potatoes, a local fish dish of some kind, and lots of pizza, pasta and gelati. Beef is very rare, but you can get lots of pork and seasoned sausages. Lamb abounds in some cities, but is missing entirely in others.
There is little variety of vegetables served with meals, and almost never an option of a salad instead of vegetables. Bakeries serve the same 12 items – everywhere. 2 types of donuts, 3 types of strudel, a couple of cheese and spinach savoury ones, a hotdog in pastry, and bread rolls. I think vegetarian and gluten free needs would be very hard to satisfy.
Dubrovnik Old Town
Dubrovnik
Cable Car
Port Area
Dubrovnik
Panorama